Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
