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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.